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Magnus
Joined: 22 Feb 2005
Posts: 78
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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 Posted: Tuesday 16:07, March 13, 2007 Post subject: Petzl Nomic, ice axes |
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Petzl Nomic Review
We have now been climbing with our Nomics a few months.
The review is based on our experiences and impressions from:
- ice climbing
- mixed climbing
- dry tooling
The overall rating is definitely 5 out of 5!
Most of the ice and technical tools on the market are specialized in either ice climbing, mixed climbing or dry tooling, but the Nomic’s performs at the highest level for all these disciplins. The Nomic’s high clearance really gets around most imaginable ice features –especially cauliflower ice formations and gallery ice.
For dry tooling and mixed climbing, it is extremely stable, with almost no pick shift when you change between grips.
Apart from its performance, balance and function –we really like the design. It’s aggressive, brute and yet very precise. It’s hard to find anything we didn’t like. However,–the griprest is adjustable in three positions (small, medium and large) but for climbers with l-a-r-g-e hands, the Nomics could do with yet another position, x-large.
This is a genuine off-the-shelf tool that doesn’t need modifications. Despite this, some of us still (of old habit I guess) wanted to customize our Nomic’s.
Fritz applied his Android leashes –without compromizing the swing. Magnus didn’t want webbing on the shaft, instead he mounted a metal knob and by doing this Magnus had to make a new leash in order to maintain a relaxed grip.
Christian and Fritz felt that removing the pick weights was a great improvement. Christian attached some webbing to the handle to make sure the axe doesn’t move while temporarily cliping a carabiner. Per use his tools the way the come –not adding or removing anything.
For specifications and owners manual, visit Petzl Nomic.
Finally, we must agree with Petzl’s own description of the Nomic:
“Now, with the NOMIC, climbers can ascend ice with the fluidity and freedom of rock climbing. A high performance tool perfect for all climbers.”
//Magnus
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